Princess Cut Diamond: The Complete Guide

Princess cut diamonds have captured the hearts of jewelry enthusiasts with their unique blend of tradition and modernity. This comprehensive guide delves into the intricacies of princess cut diamonds, offering expert insights to help you appreciate and choose this captivating diamond shape.

What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?

A princess cut diamond is a square or slightly rectangular diamond with pointed corners, featuring a complex facet structure that typically includes 58 to 76 facets. This cut is renowned for its exceptional brilliance, fire, and scintillation, rivaling even the round brilliant cut in its ability to capture and reflect light.

Key Features of Princess Cut Diamonds:

1. Square or slightly rectangular shape with a length-to-width ratio typically between 1.00 and 1.05
2. Pointed corners that create a distinctive profile
3. Brilliant facet pattern, often including chevron-shaped facets on the pavilion
4. Contemporary look that appeals to modern tastes
5. Excellent light performance, with high levels of brilliance and fire
6. Versatile shape that suits various jewelry settings and styles

History of the Princess Cut

The princess cut, now the second most popular diamond shape for engagement rings, has a relatively short but impactful history in the world of diamond cutting. While square-shaped diamonds have existed since the 1960s, the modern princess cut as we know it today was perfected in 1979 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz in Israel.

Initially called the "profile cut," this new design aimed to combine the brilliance of a round diamond with the geometric appeal of a square shape. What set the princess cut apart was its unique facet structure. Unlike earlier square cuts that used step-cut facets (similar to emerald cuts), the princess cut incorporated a brilliant-cut facet pattern, dramatically improving the diamond's light performance.

The cut gained significant traction in the 1980s, quickly becoming a favorite among diamond enthusiasts and jewelry designers alike. Its popularity for engagement rings can be attributed to its exceptional sparkle, modern appearance, and versatility in various settings. The princess cut's ability to hide inclusions well and its efficient use of rough diamond crystal have also contributed to its enduring appeal in the jewelry market.

Anatomy of a Princess Cut Diamond

Understanding the anatomy of a princess cut diamond is crucial for appreciating its unique characteristics and light performance:

1. Crown: The top portion of the diamond, visible when set in jewelry. In a princess cut, the crown typically features triangular and kite-shaped facets that contribute to its brilliance.
2. Pavilion: The bottom part of the diamond, which plays a critical role in light reflection. Princess cuts often have a distinctive "chevron" pattern of facets on the pavilion, which can vary from 2 to 4 chevrons. The number of chevrons can affect the diamond's appearance and light performance.
3. Girdle: The thin perimeter separating the crown and pavilion. In princess cuts, the girdle thickness can vary and should be assessed for durability, especially at the corners.
4. Culet: The bottom point of the diamond. Unlike round brilliants, princess cuts typically do not have a culet, instead coming to a point where the pavilion facets meet.
5. Table: The large, flat facet on top of the diamond. The table percentage in princess cuts can vary, typically ranging from 65% to 75% of the diamond's width.
6. Corner Angles: The points where the crown and pavilion meet at the corners. These are crucial areas in a princess cut, as they can be prone to chipping if not properly protected in the setting.

Princess Cut vs. Other Diamond Shapes

Understanding how princess cuts compare to other popular diamond shapes can help in making an informed decision. Here's how they stack up:

• Round Brilliant: Princess cuts offer similar levels of brilliance but with a more modern, geometric shape. They're typically 15-25% less expensive than round brilliants of the same carat weight. However, round brilliants may appear larger face-up due to their circular shape.
• Cushion Cut: Princess cuts have sharper corners and a more defined shape compared to the softer, rounded corners of cushion cuts. Cushion cuts often have larger facets, creating a different type of sparkle (sometimes described as "chunky"). Princess cuts typically appear more modern, while cushion cuts have a more vintage appeal.
• Emerald Cut: While both are angular, princess cuts offer more brilliance than the step-cut facets of emerald cuts. Emerald cuts emphasize clarity and color more than princess cuts, while princess cuts hide inclusions better.
• Asscher Cut: Princess cuts are square with pointed corners, while Asscher cuts are square with cropped corners. Asscher cuts have a distinctive "X" pattern visible when viewed from above, which princess cuts lack. Princess cuts offer more brilliance, while Asscher cuts provide a unique "hall of mirrors" effect.
• Radiant Cut: Both are brilliant cuts, but radiant cuts have cropped corners. Princess cuts typically appear more square, while radiants are often more rectangular. Radiant cuts may show color slightly less than princess cuts.

Each of these comparisons highlights the unique characteristics of princess cut diamonds. Their combination of brilliance, modern style, and value continues to make them a popular choice for engagement rings and other fine jewelry.

Pros and Cons of Princess Cut Diamonds

Princess cut diamonds have become increasingly popular due to their unique blend of traditional brilliance and modern style. To help you make an informed decision, let's explore the advantages and disadvantages of this captivating diamond shape.

Pros:

1. Brilliant Sparkle: Princess cuts rival round brilliant diamonds in their ability to reflect light, offering exceptional fire and scintillation.
2. Cost-Effective: Due to their shape, princess cuts typically yield more from the rough diamond, making them about 15-25% less expensive than round brilliants of comparable carat weight.
3. Modern Aesthetic: The square shape with pointed corners gives princess cuts a contemporary look, appealing to those who prefer geometric designs.
4. Versatile in Settings: Princess cuts work well in various setting styles, from solitaires to channel settings and multi-stone arrangements.
5. Hide Inclusions Well: The facet pattern of princess cuts can effectively mask small inclusions, allowing for more flexibility in choosing clarity grades.

Cons:

1. Vulnerable Corners: The pointed corners of princess cuts are prone to chipping if not properly protected in the setting.
2. May Appear Smaller: Compared to round diamonds of the same carat weight, princess cuts might appear slightly smaller when viewed from above due to weight distribution.
3. Retain Color: Princess cuts tend to hold onto color more than round brilliants, potentially requiring a higher color grade for a colorless appearance.
4. Require More Frequent Cleaning: The corners can trap dirt and oil more easily, necessitating more regular cleaning to maintain brilliance.
5. Cut Quality Variations: The complexity of the cut means quality can vary significantly between different princess cut diamonds, requiring careful selection.

When considering a princess cut diamond, weigh these pros and cons against your personal preferences, lifestyle, and budget. While the pointed corners require some extra care, many find that the unique beauty and value of princess cuts more than compensate for this consideration.

How to Choose a Princess Cut Diamond

Selecting the ideal princess cut diamond balances technical knowledge with personal taste. As you search for your perfect stone, consider key factors like cut quality, color, clarity, and size. These elements work together to determine a diamond's beauty, value, and suitability for your unique preferences and budget.

Cut Quality

The cut quality is the most crucial factor in a princess cut diamond's beauty. Unlike round brilliants, princess cuts don't have a standardized cut grading system, so you'll need to pay close attention to several aspects:

• Look for a cut grade of "Very Good" or "Excellent" if provided by the certifying lab.
• Aim for a table percentage between 65% and 75%.
• The depth percentage should ideally fall between 65% and 75%.
• Symmetry and polish grades should be "Very Good" or "Excellent".

A well-cut princess diamond will have sharp, even corners and a crisp, square shape when viewed from above. The facets should align properly, creating a pleasing pattern of light and dark areas.

Color

Princess cuts tend to retain more color than round brilliants, particularly in the corners. Your choice of color grade depends on personal preference and the setting metal:

• For platinum or white gold settings, consider G-H color grades or higher for a noticeably white appearance.
• Yellow or rose gold settings can accommodate slightly lower color grades (I-J) as the metal color will complement any warmth in the diamond.
• If you're particularly sensitive to color, you might prefer F color or higher, especially for larger diamonds.

Remember, the difference between color grades can be subtle, and many find the warm tones in near-colorless diamonds appealing.

Clarity

Thanks to their facet arrangement, princess cuts are adept at hiding small inclusions, particularly near the corners. This allows for some flexibility in choosing clarity:

• VS2 or SI1 clarity grades often provide a clean appearance to the naked eye while offering excellent value.
• Ensure any inclusions are not located under the table where they would be most visible.
• Be cautious of inclusions near the corners that might weaken the structural integrity of the diamond.

Always review the diamond's clarity plot on its certificate and, if possible, examine the stone under magnification to understand the nature and location of any inclusions.

Carat Weight and Size Perception

When choosing carat weight, keep in mind:

• Princess cuts may appear slightly smaller face-up than round diamonds of the same carat weight due to their shape and weight distribution.
• The square shape allows for greater flexibility in choosing a larger carat weight without the diamond appearing overly large on the finger.
• Consider the finger size and personal style preferences when deciding on carat weight.

Length-to-Width Ratio

The length-to-width ratio determines how square or rectangular the diamond appears:

• For a classic square appearance, look for a ratio between 1.00 and 1.05.
• Ratios above 1.05 will appear more rectangular, which some may prefer for a unique look.
• Be aware that very elongated princess cuts (ratios above 1.10) may sacrifice some brilliance.

Fluorescence

Fluorescence can affect a diamond's appearance under UV light:

• In lower color grades (I-M), fluorescence can make a diamond appear whiter.
• In higher color grades, strong fluorescence might cause a hazy or oily appearance in some diamonds.
• Many buyers prefer no fluorescence, but it's largely a matter of personal preference and can sometimes offer value.

Certification

Always choose a princess cut diamond that comes with a certificate from a reputable gemological laboratory like GIA or AGS. This ensures you're getting an accurate assessment of the diamond's quality.

Setting Considerations

The setting you choose can enhance your princess cut diamond's beauty and protect its vulnerable corners:

• V-prong settings offer excellent corner protection while showcasing the diamond's shape.
• Bezel settings provide maximum protection but may hide more of the diamond.
• Channel settings work well for princess cuts in wedding bands or as side stones.

Popular Settings for Princess Cut Diamonds

The right setting enhances a princess cut diamond's beauty while protecting its delicate corners. Here are some favorite choices:

1. Solitaire: Highlights the diamond's shape and brilliance, often using V-prong settings to protect the corners while maximizing light exposure.
2. Halo: Enhances the overall size appearance by surrounding the center stone with smaller diamonds, available in square or round halo designs for different effects.
3. Three-stone: Creates a balanced, elegant look by flanking the center princess cut with two side stones, which can be other princess cuts, baguettes, trillions, or round diamonds.
4. Channel: Protects the corners while offering a sleek profile, ideal for wedding bands or as side stones in engagement rings, with the princess cuts set flush between two metal channels.
5. Bezel: Provides maximum protection for the diamond by encircling it with a metal rim, available in full or partial bezel styles for different levels of security and aesthetics.
6. Invisible Setting: Creates a stunning, seamless surface of princess cut diamonds set closely together without visible prongs, requiring high precision in both cutting and setting.
7. Tension Setting: Offers a modern, minimalist look by holding the diamond in place with pressure from the band, creating the illusion that the stone is suspended in air.

From classic to contemporary, these settings offer various ways to highlight your princess cut diamond's unique charm while ensuring its security.

Caring for Your Princess Cut Diamond

To maintain the beauty and integrity of your princess cut diamond:

1. Clean regularly with mild soap and warm water, using a soft brush to gently remove dirt, especially from corners
2. Use ultrasonic cleaners with caution, as they may loosen settings
3. Have the setting checked professionally at least once a year to ensure prongs are secure, especially those protecting the corners
4. Remove jewelry when engaging in activities that may risk impact to the stone, such as sports or heavy housework
5. Store your princess cut diamond jewelry separately from other pieces to prevent scratching
6. Be extra cautious of the pointed corners, which are more prone to chipping than other diamond shapes

Conclusion

Princess cut diamonds offer a perfect blend of modern style and brilliant sparkle. They're an excellent choice for those seeking a contemporary look with the fire of a round brilliant, often at a more accessible price point. When choosing a princess cut, focus on cut quality for optimal light performance, and ensure the setting protects the corners. With proper care and selection, a princess cut diamond can be a stunning and durable choice for engagement rings and fine jewelry.