Asscher Cut Diamonds: History, Features, and Modern Appeal

The Asscher cut diamond stands as one of the most architecturally distinct diamond cuts in jewelry history, combining geometric precision with vintage elegance. This unique cut, characterized by its octagonal shape and mesmerizing “hall of mirrors” effect, offers a different kind of beauty compared to traditional brilliant-cut diamonds. Whether you’re considering an Asscher cut for an engagement ring or simply appreciate fine diamonds, understanding its distinctive features helps in making an informed decision about this historic cut.

Origins of the Asscher Cut Diamond

The Asscher cut represents a pivotal moment in diamond cutting history, emerging during the Art Deco period when geometric designs and architectural precision were highly valued. This cut’s creation marked the first time a diamond cut received a patent, showcasing its revolutionary nature in the diamond industry.

• Joseph Asscher created and patented this distinctive cut in 1902 in Amsterdam, after years of experimenting with different facet arrangements to maximize the beauty of step-cut diamonds. The original patent protected this unique design for 50 years, ensuring the Asscher family maintained exclusive rights to produce this cut until 1952.
• The Asscher family’s expertise in diamond cutting reached its peak when they were chosen to cleave the famous Cullinan diamond in 1908. This 3,106-carat rough diamond required such precise skill that Joseph Asscher reportedly fainted after successfully making the first cut, demonstrating the intense pressure and precision required in working with such significant stones.
• During World War II, the Asscher family’s business was devastated when their factory was seized and most family members were sent to concentration camps. Only ten family members survived, but they successfully rebuilt their business after the war, maintaining their reputation for excellence in diamond cutting.
• The modern Royal Asscher cut, introduced in 2001, represents a significant evolution of the original design. This new version features 74 facets compared to the original’s 58, with additional facets on the pavilion and crown. These modifications enhance light performance while maintaining the characteristic “windmill” pattern visible from the top of the stone.
• The Asscher family continues to innovate, introducing variations like the Royal Asscher Round Brilliant in 2012, though the classic Asscher cut remains their most famous contribution to diamond cutting history. Today, while other companies can create Asscher cut diamonds, only the Royal Asscher Diamond Company can produce the patented Royal Asscher cut with its 74 facets.

The Asscher cut’s journey from its Art Deco origins to its modern incarnation demonstrates the enduring appeal of this sophisticated design. Its history reflects not just the evolution of diamond cutting technology, but also the resilience of a family business that helped shape the modern diamond industry.

Unique Features of Asscher Cut Diamonds

The Asscher cut’s distinctive characteristics set it apart from other diamond cuts through its unique combination of geometry and optical effects. Understanding these features helps appreciate why this cut creates such a different visual experience compared to more common brilliant cuts.

• The step-cut faceting pattern creates a distinctive “hall of mirrors” effect, where parallel lines appear to recede into the center of the stone. Unlike brilliant cuts that focus on maximum sparkle, these step-cut facets produce a more subtle, sophisticated play of light that emphasizes the diamond’s clarity and geometric precision.
• Square shape with cropped corners creates an octagonal outline, typically with a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05. This geometric design makes the cut instantly recognizable and provides better durability than sharp corners would offer. The optimal depth percentage ranges from 60% to 70% of the diamond’s width.
• The original Asscher cut features 58 facets arranged in three rows on the crown (top) and three rows on the pavilion (bottom). The Royal Asscher variation increases this to 74 facets, adding two rows to the pavilion for enhanced light return while maintaining the characteristic windmill pattern.
• When viewed from above, a properly cut Asscher diamond displays a distinctive “windmill” pattern formed by eight symmetrical triangular facets meeting in the center. This pattern serves as a key indicator of cut quality – in well-cut stones, these facets should be perfectly symmetrical and clearly visible.
• The large, open table (top facet) of an Asscher cut typically comprises 60-65% of the diamond’s width, making it one of the most prominent features. This large table, combined with the step-cut facets, showcases the diamond’s clarity more than other cuts, making high clarity especially important.
• Unlike brilliant cuts that mask slight color variations, the step-cut faceting pattern of the Asscher cut tends to show the diamond’s body color more readily. This characteristic makes color grade particularly important when selecting an Asscher cut diamond, with experts typically recommending H color or better for white diamonds.

The Asscher cut’s unique attributes make it particularly appealing to those who appreciate architectural design and clean lines over maximum sparkle. Its sophisticated appearance and historic significance continue to make it a distinctive choice in modern jewelry design.

What to Look for in Asscher Cut Diamonds

When evaluating an Asscher cut diamond, understanding its key characteristics becomes crucial for making an informed choice. Unlike brilliant cuts that focus primarily on sparkle, Asscher cuts require careful attention to specific quality factors that affect their unique optical properties and overall beauty.

• Cut quality is paramount in Asscher diamonds, with symmetry being particularly critical. Each step-cut facet must align perfectly with its corresponding facets to create the signature hall of mirrors effect. The facet intersections should be crisp and clean, forming straight lines that meet at precise angles. A well-cut Asscher will display a clear, distinct windmill pattern when viewed from above.
• Ideal proportions for an Asscher cut include a table size of 60-65% of the diamond’s width, a total depth of 60-70%, and a crown height of 12-15%. These proportions ensure optimal light performance and create the characteristic stepped appearance that defines the cut. The length-to-width ratio should stay between 1.00-1.05 to maintain the proper square shape.
• Clarity grades take on heightened importance in Asscher cuts because their large, open facets and step-cut design make inclusions more visible than in brilliant cuts. VS2 clarity or better is typically recommended, though some SI1 diamonds can be eye-clean if their inclusions are positioned near the edges. The step-cut facets act like windows into the diamond, making even small imperfections more noticeable.
• Color grading becomes more crucial in Asscher cuts because the step-cut facets tend to retain color more than brilliant cuts. For white diamonds set in platinum or white gold, H color or better is recommended to ensure the stone appears colorless. For yellow or rose gold settings, I or J colors can work well as the metal’s warmth complements these slightly warmer diamond colors.
• Polish grade significantly impacts an Asscher cut’s appearance because the broad, flat facets readily show any surface imperfections. Excellent or Very Good polish grades are recommended to ensure the facets remain crisp and clear, maximizing the cut’s distinctive optical effects.
• The crown and pavilion angles must work together harmoniously to create proper light return. Ideal crown angles range from 32-35 degrees, while pavilion angles should fall between 42-45 degrees. These angles ensure the diamond exhibits proper brightness and contrast patterns, enhancing its overall visual appeal.

The characteristics of an Asscher cut diamond work together to create its unique beauty, making it essential to consider how each factor contributes to the overall appearance of the stone. Understanding these elements helps ensure you select a diamond that best exemplifies the cut’s distinctive qualities.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Asscher Cut Diamonds

Understanding the advantages and potential drawbacks of an Asscher cut diamond helps make an informed decision that aligns with your preferences and needs. This distinctive cut offers unique benefits but also comes with specific considerations that may influence your choice.

Advantages

The Asscher cut’s positive attributes make it a compelling choice for those seeking a distinctive and sophisticated diamond. These advantages set it apart from other cuts and contribute to its enduring appeal in fine jewelry.

• The distinctive “hall of mirrors” effect creates a unique visual experience that no other diamond cut can replicate. This optical phenomenon results from perfectly aligned step-cut facets, producing an elegant and sophisticated appearance that draws the eye into the center of the stone.
• The octagonal shape with cropped corners provides superior durability compared to cuts with sharp points. This design feature makes Asscher cuts less prone to chipping and more suitable for everyday wear, particularly in rings where the stone might frequently contact other surfaces.
• Asscher cuts possess remarkable versatility in different setting styles, from vintage-inspired designs to modern minimalist settings. The geometric shape works particularly well in both solitaire settings that showcase the cut’s architectural beauty and more complex designs incorporating side stones.
• The cut’s relative rarity makes it a distinctive choice, setting it apart from more common diamond cuts. This uniqueness, combined with its royal heritage and Art Deco associations, adds an element of exclusivity and sophistication to any piece of jewelry.
• Asscher cuts maintain their appeal over time due to their classic, architectural design. Unlike some contemporary cuts that may fall out of fashion, the Asscher cut’s timeless geometry continues to attract admirers, making it a reliable choice for heirloom pieces.

Disadvantages

Understanding the potential limitations of Asscher cut diamonds helps in making an informed decision and ensuring your expectations align with the cut’s characteristics.

• Asscher cuts typically appear smaller than brilliant cuts of the same carat weight when viewed from above. This face-up appearance results from their deeper pavilion and geometric proportions, potentially requiring a larger stone to achieve the desired visual impact.
• The step-cut faceting pattern reveals color more readily than brilliant cuts, making higher color grades necessary to achieve a colorless appearance. This characteristic can impact both the selection process and the overall cost of the stone.
• Clarity becomes more critical in Asscher cuts because their large, open facets make inclusions more visible. This transparency often necessitates selecting higher clarity grades than would be required for brilliant cuts of similar size, potentially affecting the final price.
• The distinctive light pattern of Asscher cuts produces less sparkle than brilliant cuts. While they create beautiful flashes of light and the unique hall of mirrors effect, they may not satisfy those seeking maximum brilliance and fire in their diamond.
• Market availability can be more limited for Asscher cuts, particularly in larger sizes or specific quality combinations. This relative scarcity can affect both price and selection options when shopping for these diamonds.

The decision to choose an Asscher cut requires careful consideration of these advantages and disadvantages, weighing them against your personal preferences and priorities in a diamond. Understanding these factors helps ensure your choice aligns with your expectations for both beauty and practicality.

How to Choose an Asscher Cut Diamond

Selecting the perfect Asscher cut diamond requires careful attention to specific quality factors that affect its beauty and value. Understanding these elements helps ensure you choose a stone that best exemplifies this unique cut’s distinctive characteristics while meeting your personal preferences and budget.

• Cut quality stands as the most crucial factor in Asscher diamonds, requiring careful evaluation of several key aspects. The diamond should display perfect symmetry in its octagonal outline, with all facets meeting at precise points. The characteristic windmill pattern, visible when looking straight down into the stone, should be crisp and clearly defined with eight symmetrical sections.
• Ideal proportions follow specific guidelines that maximize the cut’s unique properties. Table size should measure between 60-65% of the diamond’s width, while total depth should fall within 60-70%. A length-to-width ratio between 1.00-1.05 ensures the proper square appearance essential to the Asscher cut’s geometric beauty.
• Color grades require special consideration due to the step-cut faceting pattern’s tendency to retain color. For white metal settings (platinum or white gold), select H color or better to ensure a colorless appearance. For yellow or rose gold settings, you can comfortably choose I or J color, as the metal’s warmth complements these slightly warmer diamond colors.
• Clarity grades become particularly important in Asscher cuts because their large, open facets make inclusions more visible. VS2 clarity represents the typical minimum recommendation for ensuring an eye-clean appearance. However, the specific location and nature of inclusions matter more than the grade itself – some VS2 stones may show inclusions while certain SI1 stones appear clean to the naked eye.
• When examining potential stones, ensure proper lighting conditions to evaluate the diamond’s performance. View the stone under both direct and diffused lighting to assess how it handles different light environments. The characteristic “hall of mirrors” effect should be evident, creating a pleasing pattern of light and dark that draws the eye into the center of the stone.
• Setting selection significantly impacts an Asscher cut’s appearance. Four-prong settings maximize light entry while showcasing the diamond’s geometric shape. Bezel settings offer extra protection but may slightly diminish the stone’s light performance. Consider how different setting styles might enhance or detract from the cut’s unique characteristics.

The careful consideration of these factors, combined with understanding your personal preferences and priorities, helps ensure you select an Asscher cut diamond that offers the best combination of beauty, value, and satisfaction.

How to Care for Asscher Cut Diamonds

Proper care and maintenance of an Asscher cut diamond ensures its lasting beauty and preserves its unique optical effects. While diamonds rank as the hardest natural substance, their step-cut facets and geometric design require specific attention to maintain their distinctive appearance.

• Regular cleaning is essential for Asscher cut diamonds, as their large table and step-cut facets readily show oils and dirt that can diminish their unique optical effects. Clean the stone at least monthly using a solution of mild dish soap and warm water, gently brushing with a soft-bristled toothbrush, paying special attention to the underside where debris often accumulates.
• Professional cleaning and inspection should be scheduled every 6-12 months, depending on wear frequency. During these sessions, a jeweler can check prong security, assess the overall condition of the setting, and perform deep cleaning using ultrasonic or steam cleaners when appropriate. This regular maintenance helps prevent potential issues before they become serious problems.
• Safe storage practices play a crucial role in maintaining an Asscher cut’s pristine condition. Store the piece separately from other jewelry to prevent scratching, ideally in a fabric-lined box or soft pouch. The geometric nature of the cut, while generally durable, can still be vulnerable to hard impacts that might chip the corners or edges.
• Remove your Asscher cut diamond jewelry during activities that could expose it to harsh chemicals or physical impacts. This includes household cleaning, swimming, gardening, and exercise. While diamonds are extremely hard, they can still be damaged by sudden impacts or exposure to certain chemicals that might affect the setting.
• When wearing Asscher cut diamonds in rings, be mindful of activities that might knock the stone against hard surfaces. While the cut’s cropped corners provide some protection, the large table facet can still be vulnerable to damage. Consider removing the ring during activities that might put it at risk.
• Monitor the security of the setting regularly by checking that prongs remain tight and properly positioned. The geometric nature of the Asscher cut requires precise prong placement to maintain both security and optimal light performance. Any signs of loose or worn prongs should be addressed promptly by a professional jeweler.

Maintaining an Asscher cut diamond’s beauty requires a combination of regular care, preventive measures, and professional attention. Following these guidelines helps ensure your stone continues to display its characteristic “hall of mirrors” effect and geometric beauty for generations to come.

Popular Asscher Cut Diamond Designs

The Asscher cut has experienced a significant resurgence in popularity, particularly among those drawn to vintage-inspired designs and architectural aesthetics. This renewed interest combines appreciation for the cut’s historic significance with modern interpretations that appeal to contemporary tastes.

• The cut’s popularity surged in the early 2000s when celebrities began choosing Asscher cut diamonds for engagement rings. This revival was further enhanced by the introduction of the Royal Asscher cut in 2001, which improved upon the original design while maintaining its classic appeal. The cut continues to attract those seeking an alternative to traditional brilliant cuts.
• Modern setting trends for Asscher cuts emphasize their geometric beauty through clean, architectural designs. Contemporary jewelers often pair these stones with minimalist settings that showcase the cut’s unique features, while others create contrast by surrounding the angular stone with brilliant-cut diamonds in halo or side-stone arrangements.
• Sustainable and ethical considerations have increased interest in antique Asscher cut diamonds. These vintage stones appeal to environmentally conscious consumers while offering unique characteristics that modern cutting techniques might not replicate. Each antique Asscher tells its own story through subtle variations in cut pattern and proportions.
• Current design trends show Asscher cuts being used beyond traditional engagement rings. The cut’s geometric nature makes it particularly suitable for statement pieces like cocktail rings, pendant necklaces, and earrings. Designers often incorporate these stones into Art Deco-inspired pieces that complement the cut’s original era.
• Alternative colors in Asscher cut diamonds have gained popularity, with fancy colored diamonds and colored gemstones now being cut in this style. The step-cut faceting pattern’s ability to showcase color makes it particularly effective for displaying subtle hues in stones like gray diamonds or pale sapphires.
• The rise of custom jewelry design has led to innovative interpretations of Asscher cut settings. Modern CAD/CAM technology allows designers to create precise, complex settings that complement the cut’s geometric nature while incorporating personal elements that make each piece unique.

The Asscher cut’s enduring appeal lies in its ability to bridge past and present, offering a distinctive alternative to more common diamond cuts while maintaining its sophisticated character. Its ongoing popularity demonstrates how classic designs can remain relevant through thoughtful adaptation to contemporary tastes.

Conclusion

The Asscher cut diamond stands as a testament to how innovative design can transcend time, maintaining its appeal more than a century after its creation. From its origins in Amsterdam’s diamond district to its modern interpretations, this cut continues to captivate with its unique combination of geometric precision and elegant light play. Its distinctive “hall of mirrors” effect and architectural beauty offer an alternative to those seeking something beyond traditional brilliant cuts.

Understanding the Asscher cut’s characteristics, from its ideal proportions to its specific care requirements, helps in both selecting and maintaining these remarkable stones. Whether chosen for its historic significance, unique optical properties, or architectural beauty, an Asscher cut diamond represents a sophisticated choice that bridges classical aesthetics with contemporary style. Its enduring popularity among designers, collectors, and individuals seeking distinctive jewelry proves that true innovation in diamond cutting can create lasting appeal that spans generations.