Princess cut diamonds blend timeless elegance with modern style, making them one of the most sought-after diamond shapes today. Whether you’re considering an engagement ring or simply admire fine jewelry, understanding what makes these diamonds special can help you appreciate their unique beauty and make informed decisions.
What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?
A princess cut diamond combines square geometry with brilliant sparkle, featuring 58 to 76 facets that create exceptional fire and scintillation. Created in the late 1970s, this modern cut has revolutionized square-shaped diamonds by maximizing both brilliance and contemporary appeal, while often providing better value than traditional round brilliants.
With its perfect blend of fire and geometry, the princess cut continues to evolve and captivate jewelry lovers worldwide. Its ability to combine modern elegance with brilliant sparkle, while often being more affordable than round diamonds, makes it a smart choice for those seeking both beauty and value.
Key Features of Princess Cut Diamonds:
- Square or slightly rectangular shape with a length-to-width ratio typically between 1.00 and 1.05
- Pointed corners that create a distinctive profile
- Brilliant facet pattern, often including chevron-shaped facets on the pavilion
- Contemporary look that appeals to modern tastes
- Excellent light performance, with high levels of brilliance and fire
- Versatile shape that suits various jewelry settings and styles
History of the Princess Cut
The princess cut, now the second most popular diamond shape for engagement rings, has a relatively short but impactful history in the world of diamond cutting. While square-shaped diamonds have existed since the 1960s, the modern princess cut as we know it today was perfected in 1979 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz in Israel.
Initially called the “profile cut,” this new design aimed to combine the brilliance of a round diamond with the geometric appeal of a square shape. What set the princess cut apart was its unique facet structure. Unlike earlier square cuts that used step-cut facets (similar to emerald cuts), the princess cut incorporated a brilliant-cut facet pattern, dramatically improving the diamond’s light performance.
The cut gained significant traction in the 1980s, quickly becoming a favorite among diamond enthusiasts and jewelry designers alike. Its popularity for engagement rings can be attributed to its exceptional sparkle, modern appearance, and versatility in various settings. The princess cut’s ability to hide inclusions well and its efficient use of rough diamond crystal have also contributed to its enduring appeal in the jewelry market.
Anatomy of a Princess Cut Diamond
Understanding a princess cut diamond’s structure helps you appreciate its unique beauty. Like a well-designed building, each part – from the flat top table to the pointed pavilion bottom – plays a crucial role in creating its spectacular sparkle. Let’s explore these elements and how they work together.
- Crown: The top portion of the diamond, visible when set in jewelry. In a princess cut, the crown typically features triangular and kite-shaped facets that contribute to its brilliance.
- Pavilion: The bottom part of the diamond, which plays a critical role in light reflection. Princess cuts often have a distinctive “chevron” pattern of facets on the pavilion, which can vary from 2 to 4 chevrons. The number of chevrons can affect the diamond’s appearance and light performance.
- Girdle: The thin perimeter separating the crown and pavilion. In princess cuts, the girdle thickness can vary and should be assessed for durability, especially at the corners.
- Culet: The bottom point of the diamond. Unlike round brilliants, princess cuts typically do not have a culet, instead coming to a point where the pavilion facets meet.
- Table: The large, flat facet on top of the diamond. The table percentage in princess cuts can vary, typically ranging from 65% to 75% of the diamond’s width.
- Corner Angles: The points where the crown and pavilion meet at the corners. These are crucial areas in a princess cut, as they can be prone to chipping if not properly protected in the setting.
The interplay of these components creates the princess cut’s signature brilliance. When cut properly, these elements transform light into the dazzling display that makes princess cuts rival even round brilliants in sparkle and fire.
Princess Cut vs. Other Diamond Shapes
When comparing diamond shapes, princess cuts stand out for their unique characteristics. While round brilliants are classic and cushion cuts offer vintage appeal, princess cuts deliver similar sparkle in a modern, geometric package – often at a more attractive price point.
- Round Brilliant: Princess cuts offer similar levels of brilliance but with a more modern, geometric shape. They’re typically 15-25% less expensive than round brilliants of the same carat weight. However, round brilliants may appear larger face-up due to their circular shape.
- Cushion Cut: Princess cuts have sharper corners and a more defined shape compared to the softer, rounded corners of cushion cuts. Cushion cuts often have larger facets, creating a different type of sparkle (sometimes described as “chunky”). Princess cuts typically appear more modern, while cushion cuts have a more vintage appeal.
- Emerald Cut: While both are angular, princess cuts offer more brilliance than the step-cut facets of emerald cuts. Emerald cuts emphasize clarity and color more than princess cuts, while princess cuts hide inclusions better.
- Asscher Cut: Princess cuts are square with pointed corners, while Asscher cuts are square with cropped corners. Asscher cuts have a distinctive “X” pattern visible when viewed from above, which princess cuts lack. Princess cuts offer more brilliance, while Asscher cuts provide a unique “hall of mirrors” effect.
- Radiant Cut: Both are brilliant cuts, but radiant cuts have cropped corners. Princess cuts typically appear more square, while radiants are often more rectangular. Radiant cuts may show color slightly less than princess cuts.
Each diamond shape has its charm, but princess cuts excel at combining contemporary style with brilliant fire. Their versatile square shape and excellent light performance make them a compelling choice for those seeking something both modern and timeless.
Pros and Cons of Princess Cut Diamonds
Every diamond shape has its strengths and unique characteristics to consider. Princess cuts have gained popularity for good reasons, but like any diamond shape, they come with their own set of advantages and trade-offs that are worth understanding before making your choice.
| Advantages | Disadvantages |
|---|---|
|
More Affordable 15-25% less expensive than round brilliants of same carat weight |
Vulnerable Corners Pointed corners can chip if not properly protected |
|
Exceptional Sparkle Rivals round brilliants in brilliance and fire |
Retains Color May show more color than round brilliants |
|
Modern Look Contemporary square shape appeals to modern tastes |
Can Appear Smaller Looks slightly smaller than round diamonds of same weight |
|
Hides Inclusions Facet pattern helps mask small imperfections |
Needs Regular Cleaning Corners can trap dirt and oils more easily |
|
Versatile Setting Options Works well in various ring styles |
Cut Quality Varies More variation in cut quality than round brilliants |
When weighing these factors, most find that princess cut diamonds’ blend of modern style, brilliant sparkle, and attractive pricing outweighs their need for extra care. The key is choosing a protective setting and handling your diamond with awareness of its characteristics – then you can enjoy its unique beauty with confidence.
How to Choose a Princess Cut Diamond
Selecting the perfect princess cut diamond doesn’t need to be overwhelming. By focusing on key factors in order – cut quality, color, clarity, and carat weight – you can find a stone that maximizes both beauty and value.
Cut Quality
The right cut makes all the difference in a princess diamond’s sparkle. While there’s no standardized cut grading system like round brilliants, understanding key proportions and light performance helps you spot a beautifully cut princess diamond.
- Look for a cut grade of “Very Good” or “Excellent” if provided by the certifying lab.
- Aim for a table percentage between 65% and 75%.
- The depth percentage should ideally fall between 65% and 75%.
- Symmetry and polish grades should be “Very Good” or “Excellent”.
A well-cut princess diamond will reward you with exceptional brilliance and fire. Look for excellent symmetry, proper proportions, and even pattern of bright and dark areas to find a stone that maximizes both beauty and value.
Color
Princess cuts show color more readily than round diamonds, particularly in their corners. Understanding how color appears in these stones helps you balance visible whiteness with value.
- For platinum or white gold settings, consider G-H color grades or higher for a noticeably white appearance.
- Yellow or rose gold settings can accommodate slightly lower color grades (I-J) as the metal color will complement any warmth in the diamond.
- If you’re particularly sensitive to color, you might prefer F color or higher, especially for larger diamonds.
Your choice of setting metal and personal preference for diamond color should guide your decision. Remember, what matters most is how the color appears to your eye in your chosen setting.
Clarity
Princess cuts are excellent at hiding small inclusions thanks to their facet pattern. This unique characteristic often lets you choose a lower clarity grade while maintaining a clean appearance.
- VS2 or SI1 clarity grades often provide a clean appearance to the naked eye while offering excellent value.
- Ensure any inclusions are not located under the table where they would be most visible.
- Be cautious of inclusions near the corners that might weaken the structural integrity of the diamond.
Focus on inclusions visible to the naked eye rather than the technical grade. Often, a VS2 or SI1 clarity princess cut can look just as clean as higher grades while offering better value.
Carat Weight and Size
Understanding how princess cuts display their weight helps you choose the perfect size. These diamonds often appear slightly smaller than rounds of the same weight but make up for it with their modern shape.
- Princess cuts may appear slightly smaller face-up than round diamonds of the same carat weight due to their shape and weight distribution.
- The square shape allows for greater flexibility in choosing a larger carat weight without the diamond appearing overly large on the finger.
- Consider the finger size and personal style preferences when deciding on carat weight.
Choose a carat weight that looks proportionate on your hand rather than focusing solely on the number. The right size balances visual impact with your style and budget.
Length-to-Width Ratio
The length-to-width ratio determines how square your princess cut appears. While perfect squares are traditional, some prefer slightly rectangular shapes.
- For a classic square appearance, look for a ratio between 1.00 and 1.05.
- Ratios above 1.05 will appear more rectangular, which some may prefer for a unique look.
- Be aware that very elongated princess cuts (ratios above 1.10) may sacrifice some brilliance.
Your personal preference should guide this choice – whether you love a perfect square or enjoy a slightly elongated look, both can be beautiful when well-cut.
Fluorescence
Some princess cuts show fluorescence – a glow under UV light that can affect appearance. This characteristic can either enhance or detract from a diamond’s beauty.
- In lower color grades (I-M), fluorescence can make a diamond appear whiter.
- In higher color grades, strong fluorescence might cause a hazy or oily appearance in some diamonds.
- Many buyers prefer no fluorescence, but it’s largely a matter of personal preference and can sometimes offer value.
Consider fluorescence as part of the overall package rather than a deal-breaker. In some cases, it can even make a diamond appear whiter while offering better value.
Certification
A diamond certificate is your diamond’s identity card and quality report in one. While several labs grade diamonds, knowing which certificates to trust helps you make an informed decision.
Always choose a princess cut diamond with a certificate from a respected lab like GIA or AGS. These certificates provide unbiased quality assessment and help ensure you’re getting exactly what you pay for.
Setting Considerations
The right setting not only enhances your princess cut diamond’s beauty but also protects its vulnerable corners. From V-prongs to bezels, each setting style offers different levels of security and aesthetic appeal.
- V-prong settings offer excellent corner protection while showcasing the diamond’s shape.
- Bezel settings provide maximum protection but may hide more of the diamond.
- Channel settings work well for princess cuts in wedding bands or as side stones.
Take time to consider both protection and presentation when choosing your setting. The perfect balance creates a stunning piece that’s both secure and beautiful, allowing you to enjoy your princess cut diamond with confidence.
Popular Settings for Princess Cut Diamonds
The right setting enhances your princess cut diamond’s beauty while protecting its delicate corners. From classic solitaires with V-prongs to modern bezel settings, each style offers unique advantages for showcasing these geometric stones.
- Solitaire: Highlights the diamond’s shape and brilliance, often using V-prong settings to protect the corners while maximizing light exposure.
- Halo: Enhances the overall size appearance by surrounding the center stone with smaller diamonds, available in square or round halo designs for different effects.
- Three-stone: Creates a balanced, elegant look by flanking the center princess cut with two side stones, which can be other princess cuts, baguettes, trillions, or round diamonds.
- Channel: Protects the corners while offering a sleek profile, ideal for wedding bands or as side stones in engagement rings, with the princess cuts set flush between two metal channels.
- Bezel: Provides maximum protection for the diamond by encircling it with a metal rim, available in full or partial bezel styles for different levels of security and aesthetics.
- Invisible Setting: Creates a stunning, seamless surface of princess cut diamonds set closely together without visible prongs, requiring high precision in both cutting and setting.
- Tension Setting: Offers a modern, minimalist look by holding the diamond in place with pressure from the band, creating the illusion that the stone is suspended in air.
Your chosen setting should reflect both your style and lifestyle, while keeping those pointed corners secure. Whether you prefer classic elegance or contemporary design, there’s a perfect setting to showcase your princess cut diamond.
Caring for Your Princess Cut Diamond
Princess cut diamonds need specific care to maintain their beauty and protect their pointed corners. Regular cleaning and proper handling will keep your diamond sparkling, while careful storage prevents damage to vulnerable areas.
- Clean regularly with mild soap and warm water, using a soft brush to gently remove dirt, especially from corners
- Use ultrasonic cleaners with caution, as they may loosen settings
- Have the setting checked professionally at least once a year to ensure prongs are secure, especially those protecting the corners
- Remove jewelry when engaging in activities that may risk impact to the stone, such as sports or heavy housework
- Store your princess cut diamond jewelry separately from other pieces to prevent scratching
- Be extra cautious of the pointed corners, which are more prone to chipping than other diamond shapes
With proper attention and care, your princess cut diamond will maintain its brilliant sparkle for generations. Simple maintenance routines and awareness of its specific needs will ensure your diamond stays as beautiful as the day you got it.
Conclusion
Princess cut diamonds offer a perfect blend of modern style and brilliant sparkle. They’re an excellent choice for those seeking a contemporary look with the fire of a round brilliant, often at a more accessible price point. When choosing a princess cut, focus on cut quality for optimal light performance, and ensure the setting protects the corners. With proper care and selection, a princess cut diamond can be a stunning and durable choice for engagement rings and fine jewelry.
